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Surprising Buffalo

At the turn of last century, Buffalo had more millionaires per capita than any city in America. The combined wealth helped persuade Louis J. Sullivan, Frederick Law Olmsted, and Frank Lloyd Wright to come to town to create skyscrapers, parks, and estates. Then the city fell on hard times. But it seems like Buffalo is having the last laugh. Money is staring to pour in to salvage many of their architectural highlights. 
 
I was in Buffalo this past weekend, on assignment for The Boston Globe, and I had a great stay. Wright’s Darwin Martin House (1905), rivaled only by Fallingwater in scope and mastery among his residences, just completed a 10-year, $50 million renovation. This includes the renovation of a conservatory and carriage house, linked to the main house via a 100-foot long pergola. This was my third tour of a Wright house, include Taliesen West, and was by far the most impressive. 
 
On an open-air bus architectural tour, we also checked out the former Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane, a castle-like assemblage of 14 buildings designed by H.H. Richardson in the late 1800s. The gothic-looking towers have been rebranded the Richardson Olmsted complex and will soon become a boutique hotel and center for architecture. Other noteworthy stops include Louis J. Sullivan’s 13-story 1895 Guaranty Building, the first skyscraper in America, and the Albright-Knox Art Gallery, considered one of the finest collections of modern art in the country.
 
The food was exceptional. On the first night we had inspired Polish fare at Bistro Europa, including pierogies and golabki, stuffed cabbage that would make my grandmother proud. The second night, we dined at the spanking new Mike A’s Steakhouse in a downtown building that was dormant the past 40 years. Saved by Buffalo’s favorite son, developer Rocco Termini, the circa-1904 Lafayette Hotel has reclaimed its French Renaissance and Art Deco glamour and is now a boutique hotel with a vintage bar. Dinner was exceptional, probably the best meal I had since dining at the acclaimed Next in Chicago last summer. Mike Andrzejewski is one of the city’s best loved chefs and he finally has a high-end restaurant that matches his talent. One taste of his wagyu beef tartare, spiced with pine nuts, capers, watercress, red onions, olive oil, truffled dijon mustard, and egg yolk, and you realize this dude’s destined for a James Beard Award. 
 

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Biking and Sailing Egypt

While we’re on the subject of intriguing tours, Beyond Boundaries Travel out of Colorado Springs has teamed with Flash Tour of Cairo to create new biking and sailing trips in Egypt. So far, there are two 8-day itineraries, one along the Red Sea, heading into the undiscovered Eastern Desert. The second seems more exciting, heading to the pyramids along the Nile River between Aswan and Luxor. Since Egypt can get pretty hot in the spring and summer months, most of the biking is done in the early morning. You’ll visit Luxor Temple, Valley of the Kings, and many small villages that will be stunned to see a group of bikers riding by. All of the trips are guided and van-supported if you get tired, and include all lodgings and food. Trips start at an affordable $1153 per person.

 

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Part II of My Week in the Canadian Rockies: Lake Louise

Guest Post and Photo by Amy Perry Basseches 

In Lake Louise, I would strongly suggest staying at The Post Hotel. Known originally as the Lake Louise Ski Lodge, the Post first opened in 1942. It has 100 luxurious guest rooms and suites, and an award-winning dining room (see more below); it’s part of the Relais & Chateaux brand, which means it must excel in the areas of comfort, cuisine, service and special character. Josh and I have neighbors in Toronto who go to the Post Hotel every year for their anniversary, it’s that special.
 
Before your Lake Louise hikes, go to Bill Peyto’s Cafe for breakfast, inside the Lake Louise hostel. We ate there twice and can surely recommend their simple fare, done well. After your hikes, splurge and eat at the Post Hotel. For ambiance (though mediocre cuisine), we liked the Lake Louise Station (inside the original train station). If you want to see the classic Chateau Lake Louise, you could try a drink in one of their restaurants like the Lakeview Lounge after your hike. 
 
To see Lake Louise itself, you need to arrive in the parking lot before 9 am or after 5:30 pm; it’s kind of a "must-do" in this area, and there is a walking trail halfway around the lake which you can take (1 hour round-trip). We did this at around 8 am one morning, with mist rising off the lake. Beautiful! Moraine Lake was even more magical. We arrived about 7 pm and lucked out finding a parking spot. We strolled on the lake trail (45 minutes round-trip), and the light was amazing. During main daytime hours, you can take a canoe out on the lake as well. 
 
For hikes, I can easily recommend the one we did. Stanley Glacier Trail (3.5 hours round-trip) was actually in Kootenay National Park (British Columbia), but directly between Banff and Lake Louise (in the Castle Junction area of the Lake Louise Trail map). Away from the large crowds, this hike rewarded us with a spectacular view of both the glacier and cascading waterfalls, as well as the area’s mountains and valleys. Scrambling up the rocks at the end of the hike, as we drew closer to the glacier, was challenging and fun.
 
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A Four Seasons Cruise in the Maldives

In my last blog, I mentioned how the new Emirates non-stop from Boston to Dubai will save New Englanders six hours of travel time if they wanted to continue onward to the nearby Maldives. I don’t think many people realize that Four Seasons Resorts operates a 129-foot three-deck catamaran in the Maldives called the Four Seasons Explorer. 22 lucky guests can opt for the three-night cruise northern cruise or four night southern cruise. Since the Maldives is known as one of the top dive sites in the world, it’s no surprise that the Four Seasons Explorer has a PADI Five-Star Dive Centre on-board. You can also simply relax with spa treatments, sea kayaking jaunts, beach picnics, and remote island excursions. Best yet, the cruise connects two of the Four Seasons Resorts in the Maldives, Kuda Huraa and Landaa Giraavaru. Combine all three and you get 7 to 10 days of luxury pampering on a memorable beach vacation. For avid scuba divers and honeymooners, this is hard to top! 

 

 

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May Newsletter Now Available at ActiveTravels.com

I just spotted a bright yellow goldfinch outside my office window. Yes, springtime has finally arrived in New England along with budding magnolia and weeping willow trees and the blooms of tulips, hyacinth, and forsythia. Time to go play. Summer is officially around the corner. Our May newsletter covers mostly domestic travel despite the fact that so many of our members are traveling to Europe right now. We don’t want you to forget the beauty of the National Parks, the fun of camping with your family (especially if the tour operator is doing all the heavy lifting), and the enticing events on Nantucket in May and June. Amsterdam is our sole European subject in this issue as we cover some of our favorite properties. Enjoy the weekend! 

 
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Soaking in the Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s version of climbing the Eiffel Tower or taking the elevator to the top of the Empire State Building, a site primarily reserved for tourists. Icelanders will simply go to their local pool to lounge in the hot tub at a fraction of the price. That’s not to say I would blow off the Blue Lagoon. Several of the writers I went with to check out the place made a second stop at this geothermal spa before their outgoing flight, since the lagoon is located near the airport. Step into the warm, milky waters, engulfed in a cloud of hazy steam, and your travel weary body instantly feels relieved. You can grab a drink at the bar or apply a white mask of silica mud to your face, known to exfoliate and energize your skin. I initially blew off the silicon mud portion, until some Icelandic babe wandered over to me and asked if I wanted to try. “Sure, why not?” I said as she applied the creamy concoction to my face. After the silicon mud dried and I washed it off in the water, she gave me the royal treatment by then applying an algae mask, an anti-aging cream. Now you understand why my friends wanted to return to the Blue Lagoon. 

 
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Top 5 Wine Regions for Bicyclists, Bordeaux, France

Other biking outfitters can try to emulate Butterfield & Robinson, but none can approach George Butterfield’s innate sense of style. Trips can cost upwards of $1,000 a day but are worth every penny when you consider some of the amenities—nights at 14th century estates, seven-course feasts at private French vineyards, a van always by your side when you tire of biking. He’ll customize any Bordeaux trip you want or simply sign up for his 6-day jaunt from Bordeaux to Dordogne that runs from mid-May through early October. You’ll bike on relatively flat terrain through these two famous wine regions, but it won’t be easy when your lunch consists of a private wine tasting at such famous vineyards as Mouton-Rothschild. At night, you’ll be staying at a former 16th century monastery, now a Relais and Chateaux property, and a 17th century chartreuse perched atop a hill surrounded by vineyards, orchards, streams, and ponds. Dinner is a gluttonous feast, accompanied by, what else, more excellent wine.  

 
I’m headed to Dallas, Maine, and New Orleans over the next two weeks. I’ll be back with stories about my travels on March 31st. In the meantime, stay active! 
 

5 Comments

  1. Thank You Steve for your nice review of Buffalo, N.Y. it’s nice to hear from people whom have seen some of the hidden treasures that this “rust belt” city has to offer.

  2. Just want to say that the LaFayette Hotel wasn’t dormant and up until the building sold people lived there in long term hotel / apts (more or less a flop house, but not dormant) and the new steack house was a gem of a dive bar that frequently had live music, Lafayette Tap Room. They did improve on the building greatly and are now trying to make it more upscale and less rust belt chic as it was, but my point is that it was far from dormant as long as you weren’t afraid to go to the places that arent bright and new and shiny

  3. What was the writing assignment, and when will it be published? We here in Buffalo always enjoy reading about what other people think of our city.

    Thanks for the kind words about our architecture and citizens.

    Glad your visit was an enjoyable one. If time allows, you might want to stop by again soon at the end of the month for Garden Walk Buffalo (the largest in the nation). Really showcases Buffalo’s citizens in ways not many events can. Or at least get one of your co-workers to come!

    I’m not associated with it in anyway, I just think it’s awesome: http://www.gardenwalkbuffalo.com/

  4. Glad you had a great time in our fair city! Mike A.’s and Bistro Europa are indeed wonderful! We’re surprising folks quite a bit more these days.

    A couple observations:

    – Buffalo did not have more millionaires per capita than any city in America at the turn of the last century. I cringe when this urban myth is repeated here (which is often!). Indeed, because there was no income tax at the turn of the century, there is no way to confirm such a sweeping statement. It is make believe. Folks in Elmira, NY, also make this claim.

    – Sullivan, Olmsted, and Wright were not persuaded to create work in Buffalo because there was a giant pile of money in town. Other cities had money, too. They worked here because a handful of forward-thinking folks like William Dorsheimer and Darwin D. Martin were fascinated by their ideas and were in positions to hire them on major projects. Buffalo lucked out with uncommonly progressive leadership at a few key junctures in its history. Money alone cannot produce this outcome.

    We hope to see you back in Buffalo soon!

  5. Thanks for clarifying, Chris and Neil. I’ll make those changes for The Boston Globe story. Kirk, the story is planning to run sometime in September. Thanks for your interest!

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