Top Travel Days of 2023, Meeting the Artisans of Florence

In early November I had the privilege of traveling to Florence, Venice, and Milan with a wonderful group of travel advisors hosted by Largay Travel, our link to the upscale Virtuoso consortium. It was an extravagant week of staying at 5-star properties and dining at Michelin-starred restaurants. Hey, someone has to do the research for members of ActiveTravels who will soon travel there!

We had great guides throughout our trip, touring the Duomo in Florence and the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, where you can visit two 16th-century synagogues still in use. But I really loved gaining access to local artisans, who were down narrow alleyways or streets you would never find on your own. That’s the sign of a good walking tour.

 

In Florence, we met a goldsmith, Nerdi Orafi, who works in the same building Salvatore Ferragamo once designed women’s shoes. She creates exquisite handmade necklaces and earrings with her husband in a small studio, their wares so exceptional that Dolce & Gabbana hired the couple to create jewelry for a fashion shoot. Of course, I couldn’t leave without buying earrings for Lisa, designed with three rings, the same symbol Michelangelo used on the marble he worked with. Just around the corner I met a 4th-generation marble paper artist and book binder, Riccardo Luci, who designs the patented peacock feather look on paper Florence is known for. He showed us his process of creating patterns and lightly applying the paper to the paint and water combination to soak up the patterns. Fascinating!

Most Memorable Trips We’ve Designed This Past Decade: Peggy’s Travels Through the Australian Outback

Peggy has long been one of ActiveTravels’ most beloved clients because she returns year in, year out to the same destinations, particularly India and Australia. You can’t push the typical highlights tour on her since she’s already peeled that onion back 10 layers. You must dig deep to find authenticity. In Australia alone, she has traversed the remote Northwestern part of Australia from Broome to Darwin, flew to one of the outlying Great Barrier Reef islands, and has crossed Tasmania. But the trip I remember most is the one where she wanted to visit Aboriginal art communities in the desolate Australian Outback. We’ve had clients visit Alice Springs to climb Ayer’s Rock, for example, but no one who wanted to use Alice Springs as their hub to see surrounding indigenous villages, often hundreds of miles away. I scoured the internet and found nothing. Then I want on a Sydney-based travel advisor chat room and found a recommended company called Spirit Safaris that lo and behold offered a weeklong Central Deserts Aboriginal Art Tour. In March 2018, Peggy and the owner of the company, Richard, drove to such obscure outposts as the Nyinkka Nyunyu Art & Culture Centre, Warlukurlangu Arts at Yuendumu, and Aboriginal Art Centers at communities including Amata, Ernabella, Fregon, and Iwantja. Fantastic!

Top Travel Days of 2021, Day Trip to The Hague from Amsterdam

MC Escher Museum, the HagueBy Lisa Leavitt

I spent 9 days in the Netherlands last October and believe it or not, it wasn’t enough time to see all I wanted to see in that small country! We cruised down sunshine-dappled canals in “saloon” boats, we viewed the international flower auction where millions of the world’s flowers are sold and shipped, we strolled cobblestone streets through small villages, we visited the Anne Frank House and the Rijksmuseum and checked out the fascinating Maastricht region in the south. Each of our nine days were jam-packed with wonderful sights, delicious food and lots of wine and champagne. The Dutch were delighted to see our group of American travel advisors, since the pandemic has been long and difficult for them.

If I had to choose one favorite day on my whirlwind trip, it would be the one where we journeyed to The Hague, one hour southwest of Amsterdam, and the seat of government for the country. Our first stop was at the Mauritshuis Museum, a tiny gem of a place with a magnificent art collection. Our guide was witty and informative and best of all, we could get face to face with such famous paintings as Vermeer’s The Girl with The Pearl Earring, and Fabritius’s Goldfinch. What an absolute joy!

Lunch was next in a former city palace now turned luxury hotel, Hotel des Indes. This hotel opened in 1881 and has hosted such luminaries as Winston Churchill, the Dalai Lama and Josephine Baker. I would love to be at their dinner table! Lunch was sumptuous and delicious and they served us way too much champagne.

Our next stop was just a few steps up the road, thankfully. We were headed to the M.C. Escher Museum, also housed in a former palace, this time for Queen Emma of the Netherlands. Now Escher’s works are displayed throughout this lovely building adding a discordant note to all the opulence. The chandeliers by Dutch sculptor Hans van Bentem adorn many of the galleries and are not to be believed. Madonna saw them while visiting and now has some in her home.

Mesdag Panorama, The HagueYou’d think our day would be complete at this point, but no! Our last stop in The Hague was the Panorama Museum. Here is a circular painting, Europe’s biggest, by Hendrik Willem Mesdag. It’s as if you are standing in a lighthouse and looking 360 degrees out to see the beach, the ocean, the nearby villages. And, we were able to get behind the scenes with a guide. What an amazing day!

I can’t thank the Dutch Travel Advisor enough for arranging this trip for me and other travel advisors. They are true destination experts and showed us the authentic Netherlands with wonderful guides, excellent experiences, providing for me memories I won’t soon forget. ActiveTravels is happy to help recreate this experience for you!

New Brunswick Week: First Stop, St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

Kingsbrae Garden, St Andrews For the past two decades, Canada’s Atlantic Maritimes and particularly New Brunswick have been one of my favorite outdoor playgrounds to sea kayak, bike, and hike in or around the Bay of Fundy waters. But it’s not just the stunning granite ledges, huge tidal shifts, and towering pines that beckon. The majestic scenery certainly excites, but it’s the people of this province and their distinctive passions that keep me returning as often as possible.

Take, for example, one Mrs. Lucinda Flemer of St. Andrews. In 1998, she had the brilliant idea of taking the century-old hedges and boxed gardens of her youth and creating arguably the most magical botanical garden in Canada. In 2010, I was so enraptured with the 27-acre grounds that I named the Kingsbrae Garden one of my top travel destinations of the year, competing with trips to Africa, Europe, and Latin America that year. When I returned yesterday, I was even more impressed. The yearly sculpture contests in the garden has led to one of the largest permanent sculpture gardens in Canada. The perennials were still in bloom, as they are throughout the spring, summer, and fall. This time, the pinkish-purple echinacea radiated throughout the garden. The sensory garden is just as seductive to touch and smell as I happily felt the velvety lamb’s ear and inhaled the powerful lemon scented geraniums.

Next door to the garden is Kingsbrae International Residence for the Arts and a glorious amphitheater for outdoor concerts and performances created in 2016. Monthlong arts residences are open to artists, sculptors, writers, and filmmakers and I had the good fortune to meet one illustrator working on a children’s book based on the groundbreaking work on indigenous culture, Braiding Sweetgrass. Now a nonagenarian, Mrs. Flemer was also seen walking the grounds, her imagination still fertile as she continues to build on her whimsical creation. She continues to inspire the next generation of horticulturalists, botanists, sculptors, artists, chefs (as evidenced by the innovative fare we had for lunch in Garden Café) and yes, even travel writers.

Van Gogh Alive Comes to St. Petersburg’s Dali Museum

Van Gogh Alive The Met might be hosting its 150th anniversary show and there’s yet another exhibition on Monet at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, but for pure escapism it’s hard to top the upcoming exhibition at St. Petersburg’s Dali Museum. Entitled “Van Gogh Alive” and on view from November 21st to April 11th, the multimedia experience features more than 3,000 van Gogh images, including the iconic Starry Night and Sunflowers, presented as large-scale, high-definition projections on the walls and floors. The images are set to a classical score pumped through cinema-quality surround sound as viewers get the sensation of being immersed in the works. The installation is powered by SENSORY4™, a unique system developed by Grande Experiences of Melbourne, Australia. The Dalí Museum is the first American venue to host the exhibition before traveling to the Newfields Museum in Indianapolis next June.

New Book Devoted to Touring Artists’ Studios Across America

New book on artists studiosOne of my favorite topics over the years has been the unique opportunity to step foot in a renowned artist’s home and studio, and then tour the surrounding landscape that figured prominently in many of their most famous works. This includes Winslow Homer’s Prouts Neck, Maine; Edward Hopper’s Truro, Massachusetts; and J Alden Weir’s Wilton, Connecticut home, one of only two national parks in America dedicated to an artist (the other being The Saint-Gaudens National Historical Park in Cornish, New Hampshire). So I was delighted to see that author Valerie Balint has written an entire book on the subject, in the recently released Guide to Historic Artists’ Homes & Studios, published by The National Trust for Historic Preservation. Homer, Hopper, and Weir are all featured in the book along with many other must-see stops like Georgia O’Keeffe’s Abiquiú, New Mexico home and studio, the Grant Woods studio in Cedar Rapids, and the Thomas Hart Benton home in Kansas City. Then there are the lesser known gems like Chesterwood in the Berkshires, the summer home and studio of lauded American sculptor Daniel Chester French, best known as the man who created the Lincoln Memorial. Nearby, you can pop into Bauhaus-inspired Frelinghuyson Morris House & Studio, the home of Suzy Frelinghuyson and George L.K. Morris, painters and collectors of abstract art. If you plan on cruising around America the next year or two, this is one book I’d have in my glove compartment.

8 Trustees of Reservations Sites Not To Be Overlooked, Including Naumkeag, Stockbridge, Massachusetts

Naumkeag in the BerkshiresFormerly owned by the Choate Family of New York before it was bequeathed to The Trustees of Reservations in 1958, Naumkeag is a 44-room Berkshires “Cottage” from the Gilded Age, filled with arts, antiques, and collections around from around the world. But it’s the outdoor gardens that truly inspire, a masterpiece of 30 years of collaborative work by former owner, Mabel Choate, and her dear friend, Fletcher Steele, one of America’s first modern landscape architects. Described by the Library of American Landscape History as a “playground for the imagination,” The Trustees have just completed a 3-year, $3 million garden and landscape restoration project designed to rejuvenate the gardens and bring them back to Choate and Steele’s original vision. The transformation includes the renovation of Fletcher Steele’s iconic Blue Steps, one of the most photographed features in 20th-century American landscape design.

This entry is excerpted from my latest book, New England in a Nutshell. The book/ebook is slated to published on July 2nd and you can pre-order now at Amazon or at the independent bookstore, Northshire, located in Manchester Center, Vermont and Saratoga, New York. The ebook includes all hyperlinks to listings. The paperback includes front and back cover illustrations from Manhattan-based artist, Sarah Schechter, and a small sampling of photos from Lisa, who accompanied me on many of my assignments, resulting in published work for the Boston Globe.

6 Hidden Art Historical Gems, Including Weir Farm National Historic Site, Wilton, Connecticut

Weir Farm, ConnecticutWhen New York City collector Erwin Davis became obsessed with a painting owned by artist Julian Alden Weir, he gave him an offer that was hard to refuse. In exchange for the painting and ten dollars, Davis would transfer over the deed to a 153-acre farm less than an hour outside of New York in the Connecticut countryside. Weir arrived in the summer of 1882, immediately became enamored with the sylvan setting, and painted the first of hundreds of works he and his friends would create over the next 40 years. To this day, the property remains a rural retreat that continues to inspire artists and is now the only site in the National Park System dedicated to American painting. Walk inside the Visitor Center to see a short film on the life J. Alden Weir, considered one of the fathers of American Impressionism. That’s not to say he wasn’t disgusted with this style of painting when he first encountered it in Paris, calling an exhibition showcasing the works of Monet, Manet, and Degas “worse than the Chamber of Horrors.” Yet, soon enough, Weir was utilizing the loose brushstrokes and plein air painting that would become the trademarks of Impressionism.

View the wonderful photographs of Weir with John Singer Sargent and Childe Hassam, two of the celebrated artists that enjoyed visiting Weir at his country home, and see the lone original work in the building, The Truants (1895). Then immerse yourself in the same natural setting that inspired Weir. Trails lead to a pond, barns, old stone walls, a sunken garden, and his house and studio. Better yet, bring a sketchbook.

This entry is excerpted from my latest book, New England in a Nutshell. The book/ebook is slated to published on July 2nd and you can pre-order now at Amazon. The ebook includes all hyperlinks to listings. The paperback includes front and back cover illustrations from Manhattan-based artist, Sarah Schechter, and a small sampling of photos from Lisa, who accompanied me on many of my assignments, resulting in published work for the Boston Globe.

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See the Authentic Australian Outback with Spirit Safaris

One of the most challenging, yet favorite itineraries I ever worked on for a client was a weeklong trip to the remote Aboriginal art colonies in the Australian Outback. Called the “Central Deserts Aboriginal Art Tour,” the trip started in Alice Springs and ended in Adelaide. My client loved the itinerary, traveling with the owner of the tour operator, Spirit Safaris, a 5th-generation Australian explorer, Richard O’Neill. If you’ve read Bruce Chatwin’s Songlines (probably the one book that most inspired me to become a travel writer), you quickly realize that to see the real Australia, you have to visit the center of the country. Yet, few outfitters actually go there. That’s why I was delighted to find Richard, who will go anywhere in the Outback, from Alice Springs to Darwin to Broome. Let ActiveTravels get you to the most authentic part of Oz. 

 
(Photo by Peggy Morrison)
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Peru Week with Abercrombie and Kent: First Stop, the Artsy Neighborhood of Barranco in Lima

I arrived on the red-eye from Dallas into Lima, excited to see some of the city before I met up with the A&K group the following day. After dropping my bags off at the Belmond Miraflores and taking in the ocean view, I went downstairs and spoke to an excellent concierge who designed a walking tour of neighboring Barranco, known for its art museums, artisanal stores, and top-tier restaurants. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo was a bit of a disappointment because they were between exhibitions, but I got lucky at my next stop, the Relais and Chateaux property, Hotel B. They were debuting their new outdoor bar that day and to celebrate, they invited in local art and fashion designers to show their wares. There was a wonderful selection of jewelry, cloaks, purses, even a llama purse which I had to purchase for my ActiveTravels colleague, Rachel. That just whet my appetite for the amazing store across the street, Dédalo, a former mansion whose many rooms are now devoted to Peruvian crafts, alpaca clothing, home goods, jewelry, and an elephant recycled from rubber that was ideally suited for my elephant-loving wife, Lisa. 

By far my favorite stop in this bohemian neighborhood was MATE, a museum devoted to the work of Peruvian fashion photographer, Mario Testino. Large scale photographs of his most famous works, including an entire room devoted to Princess Di, grace the walls. Just as impressive was a gallery of close-up photographs of Peruvian women dressed in traditional garb. That night I would return to Barranco to dine at a local favorite, Amoramar, known for its charred octopus, fresh tuna, and powerful pisco sours. A wonderful start to what would soon be a memorable week.