Top Travel Days of 2023, A Whirlwind Tour of Busan

Thanks to an impressive subway system which whisks you away to all parts of the city, you can see most of the major sites of Busan within a day. That’s exactly what Lisa and I did with our son Jake last May as part of our small group Intrepid tour around South Korea. First stop was atop a hillside at the Gamcheon Cultural Village, once the poorest part of the city after the Korean War ended. The neighborhood has now reinvented itself as a hub for artists and artisans. Colorful murals cover many of the walls and small shops sell everything from bracelets to tapestries.

Then it was off to Jagalchi Market, the largest seafood market in South Korea. Located at the Namp Port section of the city, you can spot the fishing boats and their nets drying just outside the maze of stalls that seem to go on forever. Every type of fish and mollusk imaginable, both live and dried, can be found here including octopus, squid, eel, large crabs, even flying fish.

We worked off our meal of fresh seafood by strolling along Haeundae Beach, arguably the most exquisite stretch of beach in the country. Busan is already excited about hosting the World Expo in 2030 and at the beach, we found sand sculptures celebrating the upcoming event. We walked onto adjacent Dongbaekseom Island, home to a lighthouse and the celebrated Carving Rock, where a 14th-century scholar inspired by the beauty inscribed words still found on the rock. The most famous site on the island is the circular Apec House built into the hillside overlooking the ocean. It was constructed for the 2005 Asian-Pacific economic summit, where 21 heads of state were in attendance, including former US President George W. Bush.

We finished our time in Busan aboard a catamaran on a sunset cruise that departed from the docks not far from Dongbaekseom Island. The cityscape, including tall condo buildings and hotels like the Park Hyatt rising from the shoreline, is best seen from the water. But the highlight is sailing under Busan’s version of the Golden Gate Bridge, Gwangan Bridge, lit up at night. Neighboring boats were setting off fireworks and with glasses of soju in hand, South Korea’s signature drink, we toasted to another magical day.

Hiking and Beer, the Perfect Combo

Beer Hiking New EnglandAfter bagging a New England peak, you’ve earned that right to hoist a pint. So when I came upon the recently published Beer Hiking New England (Helvetiq) at my local bookstore, covering two of my favorite subjects, mountain climbs and craft brew, I had to grab a copy. Written by Carey Kish, the longtime hiking and camping columnist for the Portland Press Herald and editor of the AMC Maine Mountain Guide, the book features 50 hikes and nearby local breweries to toast your achievement. They include several of my favorite climbs and walks in the region, including Mount Pisgah in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont; Mount Moosilauke, the 10th highest peak in the White Mountains; Quoddy Head in Downeast Maine; and the Great Island Trail, a long trek along the coast of Cape Cod. What I didn’t realize is how many craft breweries we have in New England, ones I never heard of, from Shackett’s Brewing Company in Bristol, New Hampshire, to Thimble Island Brewing Company in Branford, Connecticut.

Carey KishKish does a great job describing where the trailhead is located, allotted time, length, elevation, level of exertion, and important to me, whether I can bring my dog, Theo. Then he outlines the nearby brewery, giving a description of their signature pours and address. I’ll happily throw this book in the car to lead me to new discoveries this summer.

Top Travel Days of 2022, A Vermont Craft Brew Run with Our Dog, Theo

In mid-December, Lisa and I took a road trip with Jake and our dog, Theo, to northern Vermont. First stop was the Dog Chapel in St. Johnsbury. Perched on a hill in the countryside, this chapel is an oasis for dog lovers around New England who plaster the walls with thousands of photos of their dogs. Then it was on to Hill Farmstead, the award-winning craft brewery located down a dirt road in the heart of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. This is the authentic part of the state, where you drive miles up and down mountainous dirt roads to reach your destination. To grab a pint of Edward at Hill Farmstead is worth the trouble. It was a relatively mild winter day, so we drank our pints outdoors with Theo, before purchasing a case of 4-packs to go. The last stop for the day was Willey’s Store in Greensboro, one of the finest country stores in the state, where we stocked up on rare Jasper Hill Farm cheeses made nearby and more local craft brew like Heady Topper from Stowe’s Alchemist Brewery.

That night, we stayed at the dog-friendly Hotel Vermont in Burlington and dined at the James Beard-award winning Hen of the Wood, located less than a block away. It was the perfect start to a two-day getaway, where Theo could romp through the snow along Lake Champlain and we could try more craft brew at Foam Brewers.

It’s been fun sharing my favorite travel days of 2022 with you this week. Thanks for looking! With trips already planned to Morocco, South Korea, and Portugal, in 2023, travels are only going to get more exciting this year.

Top Travel Days of 2022, A Hopper Retrospective and Korean Steakhouse in New York

Cote is one of those Michelin-starred restaurants in Manhattan that you have to book exactly 30 days prior to your reservation, or you have very little chance of dining there. Remarkably, our son, Jake, snagged a reservation for one of the outdoor tables at 5:30 pm in early November. Fortunately, it was an unusually warm day and we walked the High Line from the large spiraling sculpture they call The Vessel in Hudson Yards all the way down to the Whitney Museum. A retrospective of Edward Hopper’s work is currently on display and it was fascinating to see his perspective of the elevated railroad a century ago after walking the High Line. Other rooms showcased his love of the New York theatre scene, including actual ticket stubs he and his wife saved, and his preservation work in Washington Square.

Then we met up with our daughter, Melanie, at Cote, listened to the chill house music outdoors and dined on a steady flow of Korean steak, like wagyu and prime rib, accompanied by a large assortment of kimchi and other fermented veggies. One of those memorable meals where the dining actually lives up to the hype.

Top Travel Days of 2022, Biking the Wachau Wine Region of Austria

Every day on our Backroads Danube River Cruise this September could have easily made it on this list, from biking high atop a ridge in Germany’s rural Bavaria region to riding from capital city to capital city, Vienna to Bratislava. But Day Four on the itinerary certainly stands out. It started with a short 13-mile warm up along the river on bike trails. Then it was off to see the impressive Melk Abbey perched on a hill atop the small town, looking more like a palace with its large courtyards, countless rooms, and vast book collection in the library.

The 23-mile afternoon ride was arguably the best of the trip, along the Danube in the heart of the Wachau wine region of Austria. Leaving Melk, terraces started to rise along the river, soon joined by the stone ramparts of forgotten castles. The ridges only got higher and soon small towns dotted the shoreline with their ubiquitous steeples piercing the clouds above. It was hard to bike because you wanted to stop repeatedly to take another photo better than the last.

It started to drizzle when taking a short ferry across the river. Soon we were biking straight through the vineyards, looking at the vines overflowing with fat grapes. We arrived in the small Medieval town of Durnstein, where we relaxed outdoors overlooking the vineyards at Alter Kloster Keller. We wisely chose to grab a bottle of their local Gruner Veltliner and an oversized charcuterie plate packed with local pates, sausages, hams, and cheeses. Perhaps we lingered a bit too long because when we got back on our bikes, the clouds were ominous and it started to pour. Five miles later, we arrived back at the boat drenched, only to find our fearless trip leader, Malcolm, hosting a party under a tent in a torrential downpour for all of us wet bikers. We drank shots of schnaps and glasses of Riesling while listening to a soundtrack that featured, “It’s Raining Men.” Memorable!

Top Travel Days of 2022, Puffins, Trolls, and Lobster in Boothbay Harbor, Maine

In early July, Lisa and I headed out with our son Jake to Boothbay Harbor for the day. We started with an early morning cruise to see puffins at nearby Eastern Egg Rock, the southernmost nesting ground for puffins on the Maine coast. We spotted seals and porpoises enroute while we listened to a wonderful naturalist discuss the intriguing history of puffins being reintroduced to Eastern Egg Rock almost 50 years ago. Soon we were watching the small plump birds and their distinctive bright orange beaks flying to and from the island practically skimming the surface of the ocean waters. They were joined by other seabirds like the black guillemots.

Afterwards, we had lunch of lobsters and steamers just outside of town at Robinson’s Wharf on a large dock overlooking the harbor in Southport. Then it was on to my favorite stop in the region, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, that we put on practically every itinerary we design to the Maine coast. It’s not just the enchanting Butterfly Garden, whimsical Children’s Garden, and the sniff, touch, and taste Garden of the Senses that make this place so special. No, they really upped the ante by recently adding 5 mega-sized trolls created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. You meander on pine-needle strewn trails along rivers and deep in the forest to find these massive sculptures hidden brilliantly in the brush. Guaranteed to captivate all ages!

We topped off the day with pints of Dinner at Maine Beer Company in Freeport, voted the best beer in the state by Beer Advocate, and a memorable dinner of tapas back in Portland at Chaval. That’s what we call a Dream Day!

Top Travel Days of 2022, Walking the Coves of Laguna Beach

After venturing to an all-day New Wave concert at the Rose Bowl this past May, I made the wise choice to visit good friends an hour south of LA in Laguna Beach. As soon as I arrived, I couldn’t help but de-stress in this small beachfront community backed by towering canyon walls. Summer is the busy time of year when the crowds head to the long stretch of beach and go to the annual arts festival, Pageant of the Masters. Come spring or fall, it’s a little more laid back and you’re free to explore the many picturesque coves like Shaw’s Cove that surround the main beach. To the north of town, not far from a resort we like in the region, Resort at Pelican Hill, Crystal Cove State Park boasts a glorious stretch of coastline and tidal pools. Tim and I took an early morning walk and then grabbed breakfast al fresco back in town at one of their great coffee shops and breakfast joints like Anastasia Cafe. The perfect way to start any day!

Heather MacDonald-Bossé, In Memoriam

Heather MacDonald-BosséI honestly couldn’t tell you the difference between New Brunswick, Canada and New Brunswick, New Jersey when I first met Heather MacDonald-Bossé oh so many years ago at Canada Media Marketplace in Manhattan. Sure, I had written regularly on the Atlantic Maritimes, but Nova Scotia had the legendary Cape Breton, Newfoundland was home to the fjords of Gros Morne National Park, and PEI was known for its red cliffs, Anne of Green Gables, and an island long bike trail, the Confederation Trail. New Brunswick to me was just an extension of Maine and didn’t seem so intriguing. Yet, Heather’s love of her province was more than just a job dealing with North American media for Tourism New Brunswick. It was her passion. Knowing my fondness for the outdoors, she quickly persuaded me to come sea kayaking at Fundy National Park, walk Hopewell Rocks, go whale watching out of St. Andrews, and eat as much lobster as I wanted in Shediac. I had a memorable week of touring New Brunswick and wrote several stories from my experience. And for most travel publicists, that would have been it. They did their job convincing me to come and I produced a story or two.

But Heather was not your ordinary travel PR professional. She exuded warmth and would share everything with me about her life; her two daughters, one a successful writer, the other a skilled doctor, and her husband, Don, a highly regarded professor of music. She would send me the published short stories from her daughter, a photo of Don with none other than singer Geddy Lee from the rock band, Rush, after winning a teaching award. Share her love of the Boston Bruins and her good friend, the former coach, Claude Julien. In return, I opened up about my life and she remembered everything. “You’re a Red Sox fan, Steve? Why not come back to New Brunswick and fish the Miramichi, Ted Williams favorite place to fish.” Done. “Steve, you haven’t hiked yet on Grand Manan Island, one of the most serene spots in the province.” Okay. “Steve, I know you savor good food and drink. Why not forage for chanterelles with a French-trained chef on the Acadian Route, then have her cook a memorable meal.” Sold!

I would return to New Brunswick over a half-dozen times, almost every other year, whether on a snowmobile from Maine or on a private jet from Logan Airport. I would go solo, bring my wife, or close friends. Heather would always meet us on every one of those trips to grab a craft brew with me in Moncton, have dinner in Saint John or St. Andrews, or have me over to her house in Fredericton. When I heard of her illness last fall, I made the drive out to Fredericton to see her one last time. Facing the inevitable, she still had that sparkle in her eye, still exuded love, and made damn sure I would return home with stories to write.

So Heather MacDonald-Bossé, I raise a toast to you, taken from us far too early this past Sunday, from the same dreaded disease that took my mom prematurely. Thank you for being the consummate professional and rewarding me with a lifetime of memories and stories to tell. But most importantly, thanks for touching my heart. Yes, I will return to Fredericton to finally go to the Harvest Music Festival and see Don’s band perform. And yes, I will continue to write stories about your beloved New Brunswick.

|

Final Thoughts, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the Danube RiverOn Days 3 and 5, we took early morning rides before seeing the fairytale city of Český Krumlov and bustling Vienna. That’s the beauty of this Danube River itinerary. Sandwiched between the starting point of Prague and the end in Budapest, you can spend time in world-class cities, yet the bulk of the biking is in the countryside, pedaling through farmland or vineyards. It’s a fantastic combination and you cover so much ground, 5 countries in 8 days.

Backroads took over the entire AmaWaterways ship on this cruise. Translation: Only bikers were allowed on the ship. It also means that the Backroads trip leaders run the show and they were phenomenal. Malcolm has 23 years of Backroads experience under his belt and I was amazed at his ability to change the itinerary, even at the last moment. When water levels were too low to go further east on the Danube past Budapest, we had to skip our last morning of biking and, instead Malcolm had buses and guides waiting for us to tour Budapest. He was also a fantastic DJ, leading two epic dance parties during the week, featuring the best of 70s and 80s music. Lee should be in stand-up comedy, every line out of his mouth a witty joke. Loved the whimsy and sheer joy of Alex, especially when dancing. Stephan knew every bike route like the back of his hand and was often cheering me on during those hard uphill climbs. If it wasn’t for Jenn, I’d still be biking in Austria, lost on some route. She was always there to direct me in the right direction and answer all my questions. Fantastic group of trip leaders, the crème de la crème at Backroads!

More than half of the passengers on the cruise used e-bikes, which really wasn’t necessary after Day 2, when we had few uphill climbs unless you craved them. Most of the biking along the Danube River was relatively flat on bike trails.

Biking the Danube River My kids, Jake and Mel, ages 26 and 24 respectively, loved the cruise. The biking was challenging, the rural landscape was stunning, and the sightseeing and dining in the cities exceptional. Unfortunately, there was just one other family with kids their age aboard the ship. There was a younger group of 35 who pulled out at the last minute due to the war in Ukraine, but tourism was thriving in all cities, including Budapest. The only signs of the war were some refugees we met from the Ukraine. That left the average age aboard the cruise in the early 60s, which is not far from the usual demographic aboard a river cruise. My hope is that a younger generation will sample these Backroads itineraries because it’s really a wonderful bike cruise. You’re rarely on the boat, except for cocktail hour, dinner, dance parties, and sleeping. The rest of the time you’re meeting up with the ship after your bike ride. It’s an exciting way to see a good chunk of Europe.

If interested in discussing any Backroads trip, please contact ActiveTravels and we’ll go over all the options.

|

Day Six, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the DanubeToday, we couldn’t pass up one of the rare opportunities to bike from one capital city to another, in this case Vienna to Bratislava. Actually, Lisa wouldn’t let me bow out of this ride early, because her mother was born in Vienna and her grandmother was born in Bratislava. So even though it was called the Iron Curtain Ride, we called it the Fried Roots Route for her mother’s family. Most of the riding was relatively level through bucolic countryside and forest, primarily on one of the EuroVelo trails that crisscross the continent for bikers. We stopped at a small snack bar for yes, our last radlers, and yummy cherry strudel, before continuing to our glamorous lunch spot, Schloss Hof, an 18th-century country estate established by Prince Eugene of Savoy. The gardens are still a wonder to walk, replete with resident camels, llamas, horses, and mountain goats.

Biking the DanubeThen it was on to Slovakia, crossing a small bridge where a memorial was dedicated to the people who died trying to escape communist rule in hopes of finding freedom in Austria. We pedaled past old castle walls before hitting the city and snaking along the Danube to where our trusty home for the week, the AmaLea was waiting. A nice 46-miler with relatively little elevation, 900 feet, and a great way to end the close to 160 miles of biking we did with Backroads over the course of the trip.