Top Travel Days of 2023, A Whirlwind Tour of Busan

Thanks to an impressive subway system which whisks you away to all parts of the city, you can see most of the major sites of Busan within a day. That’s exactly what Lisa and I did with our son Jake last May as part of our small group Intrepid tour around South Korea. First stop was atop a hillside at the Gamcheon Cultural Village, once the poorest part of the city after the Korean War ended. The neighborhood has now reinvented itself as a hub for artists and artisans. Colorful murals cover many of the walls and small shops sell everything from bracelets to tapestries.

Then it was off to Jagalchi Market, the largest seafood market in South Korea. Located at the Namp Port section of the city, you can spot the fishing boats and their nets drying just outside the maze of stalls that seem to go on forever. Every type of fish and mollusk imaginable, both live and dried, can be found here including octopus, squid, eel, large crabs, even flying fish.

We worked off our meal of fresh seafood by strolling along Haeundae Beach, arguably the most exquisite stretch of beach in the country. Busan is already excited about hosting the World Expo in 2030 and at the beach, we found sand sculptures celebrating the upcoming event. We walked onto adjacent Dongbaekseom Island, home to a lighthouse and the celebrated Carving Rock, where a 14th-century scholar inspired by the beauty inscribed words still found on the rock. The most famous site on the island is the circular Apec House built into the hillside overlooking the ocean. It was constructed for the 2005 Asian-Pacific economic summit, where 21 heads of state were in attendance, including former US President George W. Bush.

We finished our time in Busan aboard a catamaran on a sunset cruise that departed from the docks not far from Dongbaekseom Island. The cityscape, including tall condo buildings and hotels like the Park Hyatt rising from the shoreline, is best seen from the water. But the highlight is sailing under Busan’s version of the Golden Gate Bridge, Gwangan Bridge, lit up at night. Neighboring boats were setting off fireworks and with glasses of soju in hand, South Korea’s signature drink, we toasted to another magical day.

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Going for a Hike? Bring Your Mojo!

I’m already planning a mountain climb next month in New Hampshire before the black flies arrive. In my trusty daypack will be a tasty new snack bar created by Clif Bar called MOJO. My family has already sampled Cranberry Almond, Wild Blueberry Almond, and Coconut Almond Peanut. All were devoured almost instantaneously. I’m eager to try the dark chocolate selections, Dark Chocolate Almond Sea Salt and Dark Chocolate Cherry Almond. The bars are made with organic whole nuts, organic fruit, and chunks of organic dark chocolate. They’re also gluten-free, under 200 calories, and the ideal source of fiber. Especially when hiking to the summit of Mount Chocorua. 
 

New Brunswick Week: The Debut of the Uncorked Tasting Room at Saint John City Market

Uncorked Tours at Saint John City MarketFor 9 years, sisters Gilliane and Nathalie Nadeau ran the popular Uncorked Tours, small group walking tours lasting 3 hours that gave visitors the inside scoop on those historic alleys and brick buildings that line the hillside neighborhood called Uptown. New Brunswick’s largest port was expected to receive a record-breaking 200,000-plus cruise ship passengers in 2020 and the Nadeau sisters employed a staff of 6, often doing 3 tours a day up to that point. But we all know what happened after that—the pandemic reared its ugly head and like many others, Gilliane and Nathalie were forced to pivot. They turned their attention to the oldest market in Canada, Saint John City Market, which dates back to the 1870s. Step foot inside and you can still walk up or down the original Market Street surrounded by purveyors like Lord’s Lobster, which have been serving lobster rolls, battered haddock, fish cakes and smoked salmon for over 60 years; Slocum & Ferris, which opened in 1895 and bakes fresh bread daily, ideally suited for a breakfast or lunch sandwich; and some of the newer vendors like Kim’s Korean Food, known throughout the city for his tasty bibimbap and ramen.

In the heart of the pandemic, Gilliane and Nathalie took a corner of this storied market and created a contemporary tasting room featuring New Brunswick’s best beers, wine, and microdistilleries. Grab a Foghorn Esty Extra Special Bitter on draught or a or a cocktail like Slocum’s Maple Smash made from Moonshine Creek White Pup. Locally curated art is found on the walls, currently photographs of the city. The sisters hired a curator who changes the art monthly. Outside is a patio lined with tables to enjoy a drink from 5 to 8 pm.

Afterwards, do yourself a favor and make a reservation at East Coast Bistro, my favorite restaurant in the province. I’ve been here at least a half dozen times, ordering fresh fish like Black Pepper Seared Tuna or Horseradish Glazed Salmon and always walked away with a smile on my face. Start with the dreamy mixed mushroom toast sweetened with walnut cream, or the gnocchi, soft as pillows and topped with homemade tomato confit—guaranteed to have you returning to Saint John as often as me.

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Exciting Changes in the Newton Food Scene

It’s not everyday that I write about my hometown, Newton, Massachusetts, but I’m excited to tell you about the latest batch of restaurant openings. For once a week this past decade, Lisa and I have been having lunch at Coffee Corner in Newton Highlands, home to the best tuna melt, iced coffee, and salads in the area. Owner Danielle sold Coffee Corner in the spring and has now opened Newton’s Nectar (87 Union Street) in a great space across from the T in Newton Center. Nearby, the owners of the consistently tasty fare at Sycamore will soon be opening Little Big Diner, an East Asian-style diner featuring ramen, rice bowls, buns, and more. In Newton Highlands, Boston’s favorite burrito, Anna’s Taqueria will be opening in mid-November at the former Baker’s Best site. Last but certainly not least, New Haven’s Frank Pepe’s, home to one of my top 10 pies in New England, the white clam pizza, is finally making its debut in Massachusetts on December 1st at the former Paparazzi’s in Chestnut Hill Mall. Never thought I’d be saying this, but the Newton food scene is happening. 
 
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Toronto, The Culinary Capital of Canada

We’re headed to Niagara-on-the-Lake this morning to start our bike trip. Yesterday, I was fortunate to spend Victoria Day in one of my favorite cities to dine, Toronto. No need to travel the world to find varying culture when you can simply walk around Toronto’s ethnically diverse neighborhoods. Start with dim sum in Chinatown, where we dined at Rol San on Spadina (worth the wait). Or grab a traditional walnut cake in Koreatown, head to Greektown for helpings of saganaki and lamb souvlaki, order a cappuccino at one of the outdoor cafés in Little Italy, find chicken tikka masala at the Indian Bazaar in Little India, and dine on your fair share of pierogies and borscht in Little Poland, or “Ronceys,” as the locals call it. If you’re looking for more innovative multicultural fare, sample the sublime Duck Egg dish at Café Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s French restaurant at the new Four Seasons Toronto. Or venture to the Parkdale neighborhood to try the tasty smoke trout at Keriwa Café, the Native Canadian restaurant that I recently wrote about for The Washington Post. 
 
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Dining in DC

We had two memorable meals in Washington at Jose Andres restaurants, Zaytinya and Jaleo, both near the National Portrait Gallery. We enjoyed Zaytinya last time in DC and it was just as good on this visit. The restaurant features small plate Mediterranean fare like hummus, falafel, baba ganoush, fresh seafood, and a charred brussel sprouts dish that was wiped clean by our foursome in record time. Jaleo is more standard Spanish tapa fare like chorizo, paella, a tasty ham and cheese sandwich, and perfectly rendered shrimp. On our last night, after the graduation ceremony, we headed to the waterfront in Georgetown for another sublime meal at Farmers Fishers Bakers Restaurant. The eclectic menu features everything from crab dib and mussels served in eight different sauces to sashimi-style tuna, ahi poke salads, and steak frites. Washed down with microbrews and shots of smooth Tequila to celebrate, it was the perfect way to top off the graduation celebration with Ami.
 
Another week, another niece graduating from college! This coming Sunday we’ll be celebrating with Sarah Schechter at Wesleyan University. A talented artist with an insatiable appetite for art history (much to the delight of my art historian wife), Sarah has a future as colorful as her canvases. She’s already had one exhibition in Brooklyn and we look forward to seeing many more shows. Also, ActiveTravels travel consultant, Amy Perry Basseches, has a son, Jake, graduating from Wesleyan on the same day. So big kudos to Jake, especially after completing his 100-page senior honors thesis. You deserve that trip to South America! 
 
After the graduation, we’re headed with my brother to Brooklyn Sunday night to see an artist we love in this family, the British DJ, Leon Vynehall. Then we’re spending two days in the city to see the Chihuly exhibition at the New York Botanical Garden. I’ll be back next Thursday. Thanks for being patient with my sporadic scheduling! 
 
Photo by Melanie Jermanok 
 

Former NY Times Restaurant Critic Bryan Miller and His Struggles with Depression

Bryan Miller's Dining in the Dark When I first moved to Manhattan in the late 80s, there was only one name associated with food reviews, New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller. A friend of my brother, Jim, I had the good fortune to participate in a handful of his restaurant reviews and marveled at his ability to down copious amounts of wine and food and not scribble one note, only to write an insightful and witty column about that restaurant the next day. His jovial personality was infectious, full of humor and intelligent conversation. So it came as a shock to me that this bright light of a man also suffered from depression as a result of being bipolar. His struggles would shorten his tenure at the Times, but thankfully he continues to write. In his latest book out today, Dining in the Dark: A Famed Restaurant Critic’s Struggle with and Triumph Over Depression, Miller details how he coped with the highs and lows of being bipolar, bringing his keen insight, inspiration, and that buoyant sense of humor along for the ride. The obvious comparison is Anthony Bourdain, who sadly succumbed to depression while having the palm of the world in his hand. Thankfully, one of the food world’s most beloved writers is still with us to tell his story.

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