Top Travel Days of 2022, Puffins, Trolls, and Lobster in Boothbay Harbor, Maine

In early July, Lisa and I headed out with our son Jake to Boothbay Harbor for the day. We started with an early morning cruise to see puffins at nearby Eastern Egg Rock, the southernmost nesting ground for puffins on the Maine coast. We spotted seals and porpoises enroute while we listened to a wonderful naturalist discuss the intriguing history of puffins being reintroduced to Eastern Egg Rock almost 50 years ago. Soon we were watching the small plump birds and their distinctive bright orange beaks flying to and from the island practically skimming the surface of the ocean waters. They were joined by other seabirds like the black guillemots.

Afterwards, we had lunch of lobsters and steamers just outside of town at Robinson’s Wharf on a large dock overlooking the harbor in Southport. Then it was on to my favorite stop in the region, Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, that we put on practically every itinerary we design to the Maine coast. It’s not just the enchanting Butterfly Garden, whimsical Children’s Garden, and the sniff, touch, and taste Garden of the Senses that make this place so special. No, they really upped the ante by recently adding 5 mega-sized trolls created by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. You meander on pine-needle strewn trails along rivers and deep in the forest to find these massive sculptures hidden brilliantly in the brush. Guaranteed to captivate all ages!

We topped off the day with pints of Dinner at Maine Beer Company in Freeport, voted the best beer in the state by Beer Advocate, and a memorable dinner of tapas back in Portland at Chaval. That’s what we call a Dream Day!

Top Travel Days of 2022, Walking the Coves of Laguna Beach

After venturing to an all-day New Wave concert at the Rose Bowl this past May, I made the wise choice to visit good friends an hour south of LA in Laguna Beach. As soon as I arrived, I couldn’t help but de-stress in this small beachfront community backed by towering canyon walls. Summer is the busy time of year when the crowds head to the long stretch of beach and go to the annual arts festival, Pageant of the Masters. Come spring or fall, it’s a little more laid back and you’re free to explore the many picturesque coves like Shaw’s Cove that surround the main beach. To the north of town, not far from a resort we like in the region, Resort at Pelican Hill, Crystal Cove State Park boasts a glorious stretch of coastline and tidal pools. Tim and I took an early morning walk and then grabbed breakfast al fresco back in town at one of their great coffee shops and breakfast joints like Anastasia Cafe. The perfect way to start any day!

Heather MacDonald-Bossé, In Memoriam

Heather MacDonald-BosséI honestly couldn’t tell you the difference between New Brunswick, Canada and New Brunswick, New Jersey when I first met Heather MacDonald-Bossé oh so many years ago at Canada Media Marketplace in Manhattan. Sure, I had written regularly on the Atlantic Maritimes, but Nova Scotia had the legendary Cape Breton, Newfoundland was home to the fjords of Gros Morne National Park, and PEI was known for its red cliffs, Anne of Green Gables, and an island long bike trail, the Confederation Trail. New Brunswick to me was just an extension of Maine and didn’t seem so intriguing. Yet, Heather’s love of her province was more than just a job dealing with North American media for Tourism New Brunswick. It was her passion. Knowing my fondness for the outdoors, she quickly persuaded me to come sea kayaking at Fundy National Park, walk Hopewell Rocks, go whale watching out of St. Andrews, and eat as much lobster as I wanted in Shediac. I had a memorable week of touring New Brunswick and wrote several stories from my experience. And for most travel publicists, that would have been it. They did their job convincing me to come and I produced a story or two.

But Heather was not your ordinary travel PR professional. She exuded warmth and would share everything with me about her life; her two daughters, one a successful writer, the other a skilled doctor, and her husband, Don, a highly regarded professor of music. She would send me the published short stories from her daughter, a photo of Don with none other than singer Geddy Lee from the rock band, Rush, after winning a teaching award. Share her love of the Boston Bruins and her good friend, the former coach, Claude Julien. In return, I opened up about my life and she remembered everything. “You’re a Red Sox fan, Steve? Why not come back to New Brunswick and fish the Miramichi, Ted Williams favorite place to fish.” Done. “Steve, you haven’t hiked yet on Grand Manan Island, one of the most serene spots in the province.” Okay. “Steve, I know you savor good food and drink. Why not forage for chanterelles with a French-trained chef on the Acadian Route, then have her cook a memorable meal.” Sold!

I would return to New Brunswick over a half-dozen times, almost every other year, whether on a snowmobile from Maine or on a private jet from Logan Airport. I would go solo, bring my wife, or close friends. Heather would always meet us on every one of those trips to grab a craft brew with me in Moncton, have dinner in Saint John or St. Andrews, or have me over to her house in Fredericton. When I heard of her illness last fall, I made the drive out to Fredericton to see her one last time. Facing the inevitable, she still had that sparkle in her eye, still exuded love, and made damn sure I would return home with stories to write.

So Heather MacDonald-Bossé, I raise a toast to you, taken from us far too early this past Sunday, from the same dreaded disease that took my mom prematurely. Thank you for being the consummate professional and rewarding me with a lifetime of memories and stories to tell. But most importantly, thanks for touching my heart. Yes, I will return to Fredericton to finally go to the Harvest Music Festival and see Don’s band perform. And yes, I will continue to write stories about your beloved New Brunswick.

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Final Thoughts, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the Danube RiverOn Days 3 and 5, we took early morning rides before seeing the fairytale city of Český Krumlov and bustling Vienna. That’s the beauty of this Danube River itinerary. Sandwiched between the starting point of Prague and the end in Budapest, you can spend time in world-class cities, yet the bulk of the biking is in the countryside, pedaling through farmland or vineyards. It’s a fantastic combination and you cover so much ground, 5 countries in 8 days.

Backroads took over the entire AmaWaterways ship on this cruise. Translation: Only bikers were allowed on the ship. It also means that the Backroads trip leaders run the show and they were phenomenal. Malcolm has 23 years of Backroads experience under his belt and I was amazed at his ability to change the itinerary, even at the last moment. When water levels were too low to go further east on the Danube past Budapest, we had to skip our last morning of biking and, instead Malcolm had buses and guides waiting for us to tour Budapest. He was also a fantastic DJ, leading two epic dance parties during the week, featuring the best of 70s and 80s music. Lee should be in stand-up comedy, every line out of his mouth a witty joke. Loved the whimsy and sheer joy of Alex, especially when dancing. Stephan knew every bike route like the back of his hand and was often cheering me on during those hard uphill climbs. If it wasn’t for Jenn, I’d still be biking in Austria, lost on some route. She was always there to direct me in the right direction and answer all my questions. Fantastic group of trip leaders, the crème de la crème at Backroads!

More than half of the passengers on the cruise used e-bikes, which really wasn’t necessary after Day 2, when we had few uphill climbs unless you craved them. Most of the biking along the Danube River was relatively flat on bike trails.

Biking the Danube River My kids, Jake and Mel, ages 26 and 24 respectively, loved the cruise. The biking was challenging, the rural landscape was stunning, and the sightseeing and dining in the cities exceptional. Unfortunately, there was just one other family with kids their age aboard the ship. There was a younger group of 35 who pulled out at the last minute due to the war in Ukraine, but tourism was thriving in all cities, including Budapest. The only signs of the war were some refugees we met from the Ukraine. That left the average age aboard the cruise in the early 60s, which is not far from the usual demographic aboard a river cruise. My hope is that a younger generation will sample these Backroads itineraries because it’s really a wonderful bike cruise. You’re rarely on the boat, except for cocktail hour, dinner, dance parties, and sleeping. The rest of the time you’re meeting up with the ship after your bike ride. It’s an exciting way to see a good chunk of Europe.

If interested in discussing any Backroads trip, please contact ActiveTravels and we’ll go over all the options.

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Day Six, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the DanubeToday, we couldn’t pass up one of the rare opportunities to bike from one capital city to another, in this case Vienna to Bratislava. Actually, Lisa wouldn’t let me bow out of this ride early, because her mother was born in Vienna and her grandmother was born in Bratislava. So even though it was called the Iron Curtain Ride, we called it the Fried Roots Route for her mother’s family. Most of the riding was relatively level through bucolic countryside and forest, primarily on one of the EuroVelo trails that crisscross the continent for bikers. We stopped at a small snack bar for yes, our last radlers, and yummy cherry strudel, before continuing to our glamorous lunch spot, Schloss Hof, an 18th-century country estate established by Prince Eugene of Savoy. The gardens are still a wonder to walk, replete with resident camels, llamas, horses, and mountain goats.

Biking the DanubeThen it was on to Slovakia, crossing a small bridge where a memorial was dedicated to the people who died trying to escape communist rule in hopes of finding freedom in Austria. We pedaled past old castle walls before hitting the city and snaking along the Danube to where our trusty home for the week, the AmaLea was waiting. A nice 46-miler with relatively little elevation, 900 feet, and a great way to end the close to 160 miles of biking we did with Backroads over the course of the trip.

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Day Four, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the DanubeDay Four of our Backroads Danube River Cruise started with a short 13-mile warm up along the river on bike trails. Then it was off to see the impressive Melk Abbey perched on a hill atop the small town, looking more like a palace with its large courtyards, countless rooms, and vast book collection in the library. The 23-mile afternoon ride was arguably the best of the trip, along the Danube in the heart of the Wachau Valley of Austria. Leaving Melk, terraced vineyards started to rise along the river, soon joined by the stone ramparts of forgotten castles. The ridges only got higher and soon small towns dotted the shoreline with their ubiquitous steeples piercing the clouds above. It was hard to bike because you wanted to stop repeatedly to take another photo better than the last.

It started to drizzle when taking a short ferry across the river. Soon we were biking straight through the vineyards, looking at the vines overflowing with fat grapes. We arrived in the small Medieval town of Durnstein, where we relaxed outdoors overlooking the vineyards at Alter Kloster Keller. We wisely chose to grab a bottle of their local Gruner Veltliner and an oversized charcuterie plate packed with local pates, sausages, hams, and cheeses. Perhaps we lingered a bit too long because when we got back on our bikes, the clouds were ominous and it started to pour. Five miles later, we arrived back at the boat drenched, only to find our fearless trip leader, Malcolm, hosting a party under a tent in a torrential downpour for all of us wet bikers. We drank shots of Schnapps and glasses of Riesling while listening to a soundtrack that featured, “It’s Raining Men.” Memorable!

 

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Day Two, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the DanubeOne of my top biking days of the trip, Day Two with Backroads was a 27-miler with 1600 feet elevation that you felt as soon as you climbed one long hill that crested the ridge. But then you were on top of the world for most of the ride, biking past fields of sunflowers and seeing the mountains of Germany, the Czech Republic, and Austria in the distance. We would pass small towns where roosters and geese came to greet us before biking over a small bridge into Austria for lunch and yes, another radler. That afternoon, we would bike on a trail alongside the gentle slope of the Danube before arriving at the college town of Passau. A sweet ride enveloped in fields of green. And the weather couldn’t be better, warm and sunny in the 70s.

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Day One, Backroads Danube River Cruise Full Ship Celebration

Biking the Danube RiverFor the start of our weeklong cruise with Backroads along the Danube River, we woke up early in Prague and drove 3 ½ hours through Czech’s Bohemian region to Germany’s Bavaria. After lunch at a country farmhouse, we got fitted for our bikes. We were surprised to learn that 38 of the 53 passengers aboard our cruise were using e-bikes. Our family of four went the old-fashioned route, having trained all summer for this week of riding. That would come in handy within the first 15 minutes, when we had a good mile uphill climb. Soon we were high in the hills, past rolling green fields dotted with cows, rows of corn, and large patches of yellow canola. We would ride the first of many bike trails, connecting to narrow quiet country roads that only Backroads could find after scouring the countryside. Then another trail deep into the Bavarian forest before entering small farming communities with their large wooden houses and triangular roofs, not unlike a chalet.

After a brief stop for the first of many radlers that week, a satisfying combination of beer and lemonade that quenched our thirst, we had another killer hill before riding alongside a creek and the velvety green fields beyond. Finally, we reached the broad bend of the Danube River and pedaled the last 5 miles alongside the water until we reached our home for the week, the AmaLea. The perfect introductory ride to get us excited for the trip ahead, 40 miles with over 2300 feet of elevation. Our reward was pints of pilsner and live Bavarian music straight out of an Oktoberfest celebration at Hofbrauhaus, our welcome to Vilshofen, Germany.

Cruises That Will Get You Excited to Get Back on the Water: Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer Cruise to Japan and South Korea

Regent Seven Sea Cruise to Japan and Korea 2023Crystal’s Asian itineraries have been usurped by other high-end cruise lines, like the magnificent 14-Night Regent Seven Seas Cruise to Japan and South Korea March 2023. Some 750 fortunate passengers will start this cruise in Tokyo, before stops at Kyoto, Busan and Jeju, Korea, Okinawa, and Nagasaki. The cruise includes free unlimited shore excursions in each port as well as a complimentary three-night pre or post cruise land program in Tokyo.

If you want to return to cruising, please let ActiveTravels know and we’ll find the best destination, itinerary, and cabin for your dates and budget. We can also help with pre- and post-cruise hotels and itineraries, and work on flights. As cruise writer Fran Golden notes in one of her latest stories, it’s always best to book your cruise with a travel advisor.

Cruises That Will Get You Excited to Get Back on the Water: Silver Endeavor’s Cruise to Antarctica

Silver Endeavor's Arctic CruiseCrystal’s demise is to the benefit of Silversea Cruises, who recently announced that they have purchased the Crystal Endeavor, the ultra-luxurious 200-passenger cruise ship that has yet to launch. Bookings opened immediately for the Antarctica season, which runs from November 28, 2022, to February 12, 2023. If you want cruise to Antarctica in comfort, this one is hard to top! Most amazing are its offerings as an expedition ship. The Endeavor features a helicopter pad with accompanying helicopter as well as a submarine to help you get to those off the beaten path spots to experience the regions’ extraordinary scenery and wildlife.