Top Travel Days of 2021, Trapp Family Lodge, Stowe, Vermont

Theo's First Road Trip to Stowe, VermontWhen Vermont finally reopened to Massachusetts residents last May after their long lockdown due to the pandemic, we jumped in the car with our son, Jake, and puppy, Theo, and hit the road. The expansive green grounds of Trapp Family Lodge is the ideal place for a dog to roam. We biked the trails, played Frisbee Golf, and dined on bratwurst, washed down with pilsner at their Bierhall. Then made necessary microbrew pick-ups at the Alchemist and Hill Farmstead and went twice to dog-friendly Wiessner Woods to hike deep in the woods and fill our lungs with the crisp mountain air. It was the perfect quick escape!

Top Travel Days of 2021, Exploring New Brunswick’s Fundy Trail Parkway

Long Bach, Fundy Trail Parkway In September, I had the good fortune to return to New Brunswick, Canada, once the border finally reopened to Americans. 23 years after the Fundy Trail Parkway debuted in 1998, the extension of the 30-kilomter drive to nearby Fundy National Park was finally finished. My friend, Jeff, and I drove some 90 minutes from Saint John to reach the East Gate of the Fundy Trail Parkway. Within five minutes, we were at our first stop, Walton Glen Gorge, where the granite spans some 900 meters wide. We walked the short kilometer walk to the observation tower and soon were staring in awe at Little Salmon River as it surges through the Eye of the Needle.

The waters of the Bay of Fundy were by our side the rest of the day. A series of lookouts soon followed on the left as we peered down at the verdant slopes sliding into the sea, not unlike the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. It only gets better from here. Long Beach is a marvel to behold, stretching about a third of a mile out to sea at low tide. We walked some 2 kilometers on a loop and it was honestly hard to tear me away from this spot. We found colorful green, gray, and granite pebbles, fantastic rock formations, and ripples of sand on the ocean floor that would be awash in water in a matter of hours. Edward Weston would have a field day here and so would any other photographer.

For lunch, we headed to the Cookhouse for a fantastic turkey sandwich, where the meat is processed by Chef Tracy’s turkey farmer neighbor on bread that was baked that morning. Afterwards, we opted for the insanely good molasses cake and walked around the room peering at the century-old photographs of loggers cutting down the cherished white pine to build tall masts at the shipping port of Saint John. To work off lunch, we strolled across the suspension bridge at Salmon River, where the waters were once teeming with so much salmon you could practically walk across the river. After one last requisite stop at Fuller Falls to see the water cascading down the slick rock into the Bay of Fundy, we arrived at the West Gate and the seaside town of St. Martins, the end of a magical coastal drive.

Top Travel Days of 2021, Biking Atlanta

Martin Luther King Jr. BikingSince we celebrate the great Martin Luther King Jr. today, it’s a good time to dive into my top travel days of last year, which includes MLK’s hometown of Atlanta. We arrived in Atlanta for 3 nights after a weeklong trip along the South Carolina and Georgia coast in early November. Any one of those days could have made this list, especially strolling through the centuries-old live oaks at Charleston’s Magnolia Plantation, dripping with Spanish moss, and a majestic walk on the beach of Hunting Island State Park. But we really enjoyed our time in Atlanta, which started with a splash at the Holiday Lights show at the Atlanta Botanical Gardens. The city has a lot to offer, including a world-class aquarium, the High Art Museum, which featured an intriguing exhibition on the outsider art of Grandma Moses and Horace Pippen, and upscale shopping at Ponce City Market. The highlight was a 3-hour bike tour with Bicycle Tours of Atlanta that started at MLK’s boyhood home just down the block from Ebenezer Baptist Church, and ended with the cottages in Cabbagetown, with stops at Inman Park and the house used for the television show, Lovecraft Country. We also were introduced to the wonderful Atlanta Beltline, which transformed 33 miles of old railroad track into a biking and walking path that surrounds the city. Afterwards, our excellent guide, Robyn Elliot, led us to many walls and bridges covered with graffiti art. A perfect introduction to the city.

Quick Escape: Puerto Rico

Condado Ocean Club, Puerto RicoIf you need to escape the winter weather, Puerto Rico might be your best bet right now. We’ve been booking a lot of Puerto Rican travel these past 3 months. Why? They have some of the lowest COVID numbers in America and their vaccination rate is one of the highest. Puerto Rico requires no passport for Americans, but you will need your vaccination cards uploadhttps://www.fairmont.com/puerto-rico/ed on their declaration form. Also, Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory and excluded from the CDC requirement to provide a negative COVID-19 test result to return to the mainland United States. Translation: You can’t get stuck there! Lastly, the many direct and affordable flights to Puerto Rico makes the island easily accessible from across America.

The properties on island we like are Condado Vanderbilt and their new sister property, Condado Ocean Club, Dorado Beach Ritz Carlton, St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, Wyndham Rio Mar, and the Fairmont El San Juan Hotel. While there, you can take a walking tour of historic San Juan, hike to the waterfalls in the El Yunque Rainforest, and sea kayak amongst the shimmering waters of Bioluminescent Bay. Or simply sit on the beach with the latest Amor Towles novel and enjoy the 80-degree weather and days of sunshine. Please let ActiveTravels know your dates and we’ll be happy to check availability based on your budget.

Bitter End Yacht Club To Finally Reopen This Winter

Bitter End Yacht Club ReopensLast time I sailed past the Bitter End Yacht Club on the island of Virgin Gorda, it was in tatters in the wake of Hurricane Irma. Cottages were torn to pieces or upside down, capsized boats dotted the shoreline. It was February 2018 and we were sailing with our friends Amy and Josh on a 41-foot sailboat out of Tortola. For the past 4 years since Irma, it has been the sailors and boaters living aboard their boats in the British Virgin Islands that have greatly enhanced the recovery of this classic cruising ground. And what a memorable trip it is! Snorkeling in the Baths of Virgin Gorda, walking the long stretch of beach on Anegada, and sleeping under the stars at any number of serene anchorages.

Stopping at the Bitter End for drinks, dinner, or a good night’s sleep in those cottages has always been on everyone’s itinerary. Thankfully, that will happen again once Bitter End reopens in January 2022. The 64-acre grounds will be a little bit different with a new Waterfront Plaza as its central hub. Have drinks with other sailors at The Quarterdeck Marina, a two-story, open-air venue featuring an upstairs lounge and waterfront views.

If you’re hoping to charter a sailboat this coming winter in the Caribbean, please let ActiveTravels know! We have a great relationship with Horizon Yacht Charters, located in Tortola and St. Vincent and are happy to design a route for ActiveTravels clients in both the BVIs or the Grenadines.

Ranch 4.0 To Reopen in January

Ranch 4.0 in MalibuNeed a quick getaway to jumpstart that depleted body, mind, and spirit after a far-too-long pandemic? Well, thankfully there are wellness resorts that provide the perfect mix of outdoors, yoga, meditation, and nutrition in a good 4 to 5-day spurt. When Ranch 4.0 starts up again in January 2022, plan on hiking some 50 miles over four days in the coastal California foothills and then returning to a 1400 calorie a day plant-based diet. Programs run from Thursday to Sunday and you’ll be staying in comfort at the Four Seasons property in nearby Westlake Village.

Please contact ActiveTravels if you’re looking to rejuvenate this Fall or any other time of year!

Former NY Times Restaurant Critic Bryan Miller and His Struggles with Depression

Bryan Miller's Dining in the Dark When I first moved to Manhattan in the late 80s, there was only one name associated with food reviews, New York Times restaurant critic Bryan Miller. A friend of my brother, Jim, I had the good fortune to participate in a handful of his restaurant reviews and marveled at his ability to down copious amounts of wine and food and not scribble one note, only to write an insightful and witty column about that restaurant the next day. His jovial personality was infectious, full of humor and intelligent conversation. So it came as a shock to me that this bright light of a man also suffered from depression as a result of being bipolar. His struggles would shorten his tenure at the Times, but thankfully he continues to write. In his latest book out today, Dining in the Dark: A Famed Restaurant Critic’s Struggle with and Triumph Over Depression, Miller details how he coped with the highs and lows of being bipolar, bringing his keen insight, inspiration, and that buoyant sense of humor along for the ride. The obvious comparison is Anthony Bourdain, who sadly succumbed to depression while having the palm of the world in his hand. Thankfully, one of the food world’s most beloved writers is still with us to tell his story.

New England Fall Foliage Will Look Glorious This Year

Vermont fall foliage“I can give you a strong assurance that it’s going to be a good year for fall foliage,” says Richard Primack, a professor of biology and plant ecology at Boston University in yesterday’s Boston Globe. That’s great news for the 20 or so clients of ActiveTravels we’re sending to the region in the next two weeks. The weather report looks perfect, with many sunny days ahead and highs of mid-60s, ideal for getting those colorful leaves to shine brightly. For those of you heading to New England this autumn that we didn’t have a chance to work with, pick up a copy of my latest book, New England in a Nutshell, to find ways to leave the crowds behind and enjoy the foliage all to yourself. Enjoy!

New Brunswick Week: Sea Kayaking Around Deer Island

Sea Kayak Deer IslandOne look at Bruce Smith’s effortless stroke paddling in the waters that slope down from his home base in Deer Island and you immediately know you’re in good hands. The owner of Seascape Kayak Tours has a fluid turn of the arms, feeling almost Zen-like with the surroundings. And wow, what a playground he gets to kayak, the granite-studded, pine-laden islands in Passamaquoddy Bay, the large body of water that separates New Brunswick and Maine. This is Smith’s 28th year in business, first starting in St Andrews before making the wise move to Deer Island. The remaining 8 months of the year, he leads sea kayaking and hiking trips off the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica.

We took the short ferry to Deer Island from the New Brunswick mainland, geared up, got cozy in our double kayaks, and within 5 minutes we were so close to harbor seals, you could hear them breathe. The waters were serene, with sunlight shimmering on the light surf. The next 4 hours were a magical blur as we could also hear porpoises breathing as pods swam by, arching their backs in and out of the water; paddled past historic circular herring weirs and more modern Atlantic salmon fishing farms; followed a family of great blue herons along the boulder-strewn shoreline; found a mink with a fish in his mouth atop a seaweed covered rock; watched both harbor and gray seals pop their heads out of their waters and look at us in disbelief, like “What are you doing here?” and stopped for a lunch of ripe red rose hips on a deserted beach. All the while we paddled in little surf around quiet islands with no boat traffic. None. When I asked Smith where all the recreational boats were on this blissful weekday morning, he noted that many boaters are spooked by the Bay of Fundy tidal shift, the largest in the world. I would be too! One minute you’re in deep ocean waters at high tide, the next your boat’s docked on the ocean floor, nowhere to go. But for the sea kayaker, this is sheer bliss.

I want to thank Neil Hodge at Tourism New Brunswick for designing a fantastic trip this week. I’d also like to thank Canada for opening its borders to Americans. It was a joy to get away to savor the scenery, adventure, fresh fish, and craft beer of New Brunswick.

New Brunswick Week: Fundy Trail Parkway Extends to Fundy National Park

Fundy Trail ParkwayIf you have the good fortune to meet Beverley Franklin at the Long Beach Visitors Center on the Fundy Trail Parkway, as we did this past Sunday, by all means stop and say hello. After all, it was her father, Mitchell Franklin, a hotel and movie theater developer, who had the passion to create a coastal drive that started near his farm in St. Martins and finished at Fundy National Park. 23 years after the Fundy Trail Parkway debuted in 1998 and some 53 years after Beverley Franklin first drew a map of what she thought the 30-kilometer trail could look like, the extension to Fundy National Park will finally have a soft opening in the next two weeks.

We drove some 90 minutes from Saint John, 13 kilometers past Adair’s Wilderness Lodge (which I suggest you type into your GPS) to reach the East Gate of the Fundy Trail Parkway. Within 5 minutes, we were at our first stop, Walton Glen Gorge, where the granite stretches 200 meters high and the gorge spans some 900 meters. Walk the short kilometer walk to the observation tower and you’ll soon be staring in awe at the Little Salmon River as it surges through the Eye of the Needle. Across from you are sheer rock cliffs and to your right the green mountains slope to the Bay of Fundy in the distance.

The waters of the Bay of Fundy will be by your side the rest of the day. Try to arrive at the gate when it opens at 9 am because you’ll need a full day to see all the mesmerizing sights before the trail closes at 5 pm. A series of lookouts soon follow on the left as you peer down at the verdant slopes sliding into sea, not unlike the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. It only gets better from here. Long Beach is a marvel to behold, stretching about a third of a mile out to sea at low tide, when you can walk some 2 kilometers on a loop. It was honestly hard to tear me away from this spot, as we found colorful green, gray, and granite pebbles, fantastic rock formations, and ripples of sand on the ocean floor that would be awash in water in a matter of hours. Edward Weston would have a field day here and so would any other photographer.

Fundy Trail ParkwayFor lunch, head to the Cookhouse for a fantastic turkey sandwich, where the meat is processed by chef Tracy’s turkey farmer neighbor on bread that was baked that morning. Afterwards, opt for the insanely good molasses cake or a slice of bumbleberry pie as you walk around peering at the century-old photographs of loggers cutting down the cherished white pine to build tall masts at the shipping port of Saint John. Then work off lunch by climbing across the suspension bridge at Salmon River, where one old-timer told me the waters were once teeming with so much salmon you could practically walk across the river. There’s one last requisite stop at Fuller Falls to see the water cascading down the slick rock into the Bay of Fundy before arriving at the West Gate and the seaside town of St. Martins.

Mitchell Franklin had to face much adversity to make his dream a reality, but he’ll be happy to know that it’s finally come to fruition. I can’t wait to return to bike the parkway and then go sea kayaking at Fundy National Park.