New Brunswick Week: The Debut of the Uncorked Tasting Room at Saint John City Market

Uncorked Tours at Saint John City MarketFor 9 years, sisters Gilliane and Nathalie Nadeau ran the popular Uncorked Tours, small group walking tours lasting 3 hours that gave visitors the inside scoop on those historic alleys and brick buildings that line the hillside neighborhood called Uptown. New Brunswick’s largest port was expected to receive a record-breaking 200,000-plus cruise ship passengers in 2020 and the Nadeau sisters employed a staff of 6, often doing 3 tours a day up to that point. But we all know what happened after that—the pandemic reared its ugly head and like many others, Gilliane and Nathalie were forced to pivot. They turned their attention to the oldest market in Canada, Saint John City Market, which dates back to the 1870s. Step foot inside and you can still walk up or down the original Market Street surrounded by purveyors like Lord’s Lobster, which have been serving lobster rolls, battered haddock, fish cakes and smoked salmon for over 60 years; Slocum & Ferris, which opened in 1895 and bakes fresh bread daily, ideally suited for a breakfast or lunch sandwich; and some of the newer vendors like Kim’s Korean Food, known throughout the city for his tasty bibimbap and ramen.

In the heart of the pandemic, Gilliane and Nathalie took a corner of this storied market and created a contemporary tasting room featuring New Brunswick’s best beers, wine, and microdistilleries. Grab a Foghorn Esty Extra Special Bitter on draught or a or a cocktail like Slocum’s Maple Smash made from Moonshine Creek White Pup. Locally curated art is found on the walls, currently photographs of the city. The sisters hired a curator who changes the art monthly. Outside is a patio lined with tables to enjoy a drink from 5 to 8 pm.

Afterwards, do yourself a favor and make a reservation at East Coast Bistro, my favorite restaurant in the province. I’ve been here at least a half dozen times, ordering fresh fish like Black Pepper Seared Tuna or Horseradish Glazed Salmon and always walked away with a smile on my face. Start with the dreamy mixed mushroom toast sweetened with walnut cream, or the gnocchi, soft as pillows and topped with homemade tomato confit—guaranteed to have you returning to Saint John as often as me.

New Brunswick Week: Enjoying the Whiskey and Craft Brew of Fredericton

Craft Brew in FrederictonWhen I last strolled into the Lunar Rogue Pub in 2014, owner Frank Scot had over 500 types of whiskey for sale. Today, he has close to 950 varieties that include Scotch, Irish Whiskey, Japanese Whiskey, and a whole glass enclosed back cabinet devoted to bourbon, which, of course, I had to partake. If you’re searching for a taste of Killyloch 67 or Glen Flagler 73, no problem. It will only set you back $800 an ounce in Canadian dollars. Or better yet, have a taste of the Mortlach 12 Year Old, one of Frank’s favorites, as he sits down and joins us for dinner.

It’s no surprise that Whiskey Magazine has named the Lunar Rogue one of the great whiskey bars of the world. In 2016, Scotland bestowed on Frank the coveted Keepers of the Quaich title for being such a wonderful ambassador for Scotch. Scott is also founder of the Canada’s oldest whiskey festival, one of the rare joint ventures between the Canadian government which controls the liquor trade, and a private business owner. The 4-day festival takes place each year in November and usually sells over $500,000 worth of whiskey to some 6,000 collectors that come to Fredericton from across the globe. This year’s event might not happen since alcohol sales surged during the pandemic and there’s a shortage of whiskey. That would be a shame because the Feast for the Senses event, where whiskey is paired with the Turner, Sisley, Dali, and Lucian Freud paintings, among others at Fredericton’s renowned Beaverbrook Art Gallery, is one of the signature New Brunswick events of the year, often selling out in minutes. In the meantime, you can download the Lunar Rogue app and read about all those whiskeys Frank has managed to collect.

If you prefer craft beer to whiskey, Fredericton now boasts the largest number of craft brewers per capita in the the Atlantic Maritimes with 26 local breweries, cideries, distilleries, and wineries. Not too shabby for a population a tad over 65,000. While in town, I tried the Yippee IPA from one of the oldest establishments, Picaroons, a pilsner from Graystone, and an Island Red from Gahan House Riverside, set in a former bank. The beers are even tastier if you pedal some of the 120 kilometers of bike trails found in Fredericton, much of which line the shoreline of the wide St. John River. Second Nature Outdoors rents bikes and offers guided rides that feature the best of the local cuisine and beers. It’s the perfect introduction to a city that should not be overlooked on your New Brunswick itinerary.

New Brunswick Week: First Stop, St. Andrews-by-the-Sea

Kingsbrae Garden, St Andrews For the past two decades, Canada’s Atlantic Maritimes and particularly New Brunswick have been one of my favorite outdoor playgrounds to sea kayak, bike, and hike in or around the Bay of Fundy waters. But it’s not just the stunning granite ledges, huge tidal shifts, and towering pines that beckon. The majestic scenery certainly excites, but it’s the people of this province and their distinctive passions that keep me returning as often as possible.

Take, for example, one Mrs. Lucinda Flemer of St. Andrews. In 1998, she had the brilliant idea of taking the century-old hedges and boxed gardens of her youth and creating arguably the most magical botanical garden in Canada. In 2010, I was so enraptured with the 27-acre grounds that I named the Kingsbrae Garden one of my top travel destinations of the year, competing with trips to Africa, Europe, and Latin America that year. When I returned yesterday, I was even more impressed. The yearly sculpture contests in the garden has led to one of the largest permanent sculpture gardens in Canada. The perennials were still in bloom, as they are throughout the spring, summer, and fall. This time, the pinkish-purple echinacea radiated throughout the garden. The sensory garden is just as seductive to touch and smell as I happily felt the velvety lamb’s ear and inhaled the powerful lemon scented geraniums.

Next door to the garden is Kingsbrae International Residence for the Arts and a glorious amphitheater for outdoor concerts and performances created in 2016. Monthlong arts residences are open to artists, sculptors, writers, and filmmakers and I had the good fortune to meet one illustrator working on a children’s book based on the groundbreaking work on indigenous culture, Braiding Sweetgrass. Now a nonagenarian, Mrs. Flemer was also seen walking the grounds, her imagination still fertile as she continues to build on her whimsical creation. She continues to inspire the next generation of horticulturalists, botanists, sculptors, artists, chefs (as evidenced by the innovative fare we had for lunch in Garden Café) and yes, even travel writers.

Heading Back to New Brunswick, Canada

Hopewell Rocks, New BrunswickNow that the border is open to Americans, head north and escape to the great outdoors of Canada. Late summer and early fall are a great time to visit the country and I plan to do exactly that, heading to New Brunswick tomorrow. From Boston, I can be in the seaside village of St. Andrews in 6 hours. New Brunswick is the gateway to the Atlantic Maritimes, leading to exceptional sea kayaking along the coast at Fundy National Park and hiking along the newly completed Fundy Trail Parkway. I’ll also be whale watching and trying one or two craft brews in Fredericton, which has more microbreweries per capita than any other spot in Canada. Please follow along next week at ActiveTravels to see my blogs, Tweets, Instagram photos, and YouTube videos.

Club Med Quebec Charlevoix to Open in December

Club Med Quebec Few industries have been impacted more than travel this past year and a half. Navigating through the dizzying array of restrictions and requirements is no easy feat and can leave this eternal optimist exhausted and disheartened. But then I read about a new hotel opening in an area of the globe I’d like to check out and I’m just as excited as I was 30 years ago when I first entered the travel world, writing a story on the hotel Robert Louis Stevenson stayed when visiting Levuka, Fiji in the late 19th century. This pandemic has been a long slog, yet remarkably hotel groups continue to build and invest in the travel industry. That alone gives me a glimmer of hope.

Opening December 2021 is Club Med’s first foray in Canada and it’s a beauty. Having written about skiing Le Massif for the Boston Globe, I’ve had the good fortune to witness the exquisite views of the St. Lawrence Seaway from the slopes. Located 90 minutes northeast of Québec City in the Le Massif de Charlevoix region, the four-season all-inclusive mountain resort is spread across 300 acres. The new Club Med offers 302 rooms and a private luxury space featuring 25 suites. All-inclusive dining features the main restaurant, Le Marché, the gourmet lounge, Le Chalet, and the family restaurant, Terroir & Co, where kids and parents will enjoy fondue and raclette, local Québec cheeses and charcuteries, freshly baked cookies, and Québec’s famous maple taffy. Aside from ski-in/ski-out access, guest will enjoy ice skating, dogsledding, and sugar shack visits in the winter; biking, guided hiking tours, and whale watching in the warmer months. Let ActiveTravels know your dates and we’ll check availability and package together with Quebec City.

Le Germain Montreal Exterior Now a Colorful Mural

Le Germain Hotel Montreal MuralIf you’re one of the many Americans finally crossing the border into Quebec to get a much-needed dose of French flavor, then don’t miss the Mural Arts Program that starts today. A guided tour will bring you to more than 20 impressive works of street art along the Saint Laurent Boulevard. Also take a slight detour to Mansfield Street near the McGill University campus to see the fabulous exterior of the Le Germain Hotel Montreal. Artist Michelle Hoogveld has created a multicolored 171-foot work of art aptly named Dazzle My Heart that will no doubt liven up this downtown corridor. Better yet, spend the night at the property which recently underwent a multi-million dollar renovation.

New Weeklong Glamping and Island-Hopping Trip to the Galapagos Islands

Blue-Footed Boobies in the Galapagos IslandsNervous about taking a cruise again, but still want to check out those century-old tortoises, far too social sea lions, and colorful blue-footed boobies in the Galapagos Islands this year? Well, you’re in luck. Two of the finest properties in the Galapagos Islands, Scalesia Lodge on Isabela Island and Finch Bay Hotel on Santa Cruz have teamed up to create an exciting 8-day land-based itinerary. The $4658 per person staring price, double occupancy, includes all lodging, meals, inter-island flights, day trips aboard Yacht Sea Lion, glamping in luxury tents up in the highlands of Isabela Island, snorkeling with sea turtles and other marine wildlife, hiking active volcanoes, and visiting the Charles Darwin Research Station and tortoise breeding facility, which I remember fondly from my travels to the islands. Not included in the price is round-trip airfare from Guayaquil or Quito to Baltra Island, entrance fee to the Galapagos Islands National Park ($100), alcohol, and tips. Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands are now open to vaccinated visitors, so if you’re ready to go, let ActiveTravels know and you’ll be on your way!

Chad, Anyone?

Trips to Unexplored Africa With the announcement of Kenya Airlines new code sharing agreement with Delta and the increase of frequency of flights from JFK to Nairobi to 3 times per week, Steve Turner is taking the opportunity to escort the more intrepid travelers on expeditions to unexplored Africa. The owner of Origins Safaris, in operation since 1963, is first planning a trip in February 2022 to Zakouma, Chad, which according to Turner is Africa’s most successful conservation project. In March 2022, Turner will be leading a trip to the Ethiopian region of Gambella and the South Sudan region of Boma-Jonglei, home to Africa’s second-largest mammal migration—approximately one million White Eared Kob. April 2022 brings us to the Democratic Republic of Congo to visit with the Bonobos or Pygmy Chimps. Lastly, in June 2022, Turner plans to guide a group to Ethiopia’s remote Omo Valley to see firsthand its indigenous tribal culture. If interested in any of these memorable adventures, ActiveTravels will get you there!

Douro River Wine Cruise with AmaWaterways

Douro River Cruise with AmaWaterwaysSteve Chapin, owner and winemaker at California’s Chapin Vineyards, will be your host of AmaWaterways last cruise of 2021 on the Douro River November 9-16. Expect temperatures to reach the mid-60s as you cruise through the heart of the Port Wine country on the 102-passenger AmaVida. The 7-night cruise starts and ends in Porto and with an option for a 3-night pre-cruise in Lisbon starting November 6th. Stop to sample wines at historic vineyards that cling precariously to the cliffs of the Douro River Valley. Other highlights include Regua, the main hub of the Douro Valley, and Salamanca, the UNESCO-designated “Golden City.” Book now with ActiveTravels and you’ll have the flexibility to change your AmaWaterways sailing date up to 48 hours prior to the start of your journey and reschedule your cruise with no change fees to any river cruise sailing through 2023.

Lima, Machu Picchu and Sacred Valley with Abercrombie & Kent

Machu Picchu One of my last trips before travel came to a screeching halt was this gem of an 8-day jaunt with A&K to Peru October 2019. I would spend my first day in the Lima neighborhood of Barranco, known for its art museums, artisanal stores, and top-tier restaurants. That night I would dine on charred octopus and fresh tuna, washed down with powerful pisco sours at a local favorite, Amoramar. Our next stop was Sacred Valley and the highly recommended property, Sol y Luna. Our group of 18 met in a ranch-style setting for cocktail hour and then a sublime dinner, worthy of the property’s Relais and Chateau rating. We started with pisco mojitos, created with the sweet local mint grown in these parts. Then we dined on trout carpaccio and beef tenderloin, finishing with a dessert of tres leches. Lunch aboard the PeruRail Sacred Valley, a 2-hour train ride inspired by the Orient Express, soon led us to our room that night at the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, the only property overlooking majestic Machu Picchu. Finally, we ended with more fresh fish at a sushi joint in Cuzco. Fantastic sights, fantastic food, all at Peru’s finest properties. A&K plans to return to the country in mid-August and offer trips throughout September and October. ActiveTravels is ready to send you to Peru!